Jul 11, 2009 I lost my poor swapmagic dvd which I've been using for 3 years now (great thing), and instead of getting a whole set again, I'm thinking about opting for a $10-20 modchip instead. It'd be nice to play off the HDD without using a HDAdvance disk. I narrowed the cheaper choices down to the ModBo 4.0 for $20, and the Matrix Infinity 1.99 for $11. The Modbo 4 PS2 Mod Chip is the latest chip from the guys at Modbo. The ModBo 4.0 is considered one of the most universally compatible PS2 Mod Chips on the market today. With support for all version of PS2 Consoles from v1-v16. Jul 4, 2009 - I narrowed the cheaper choices down to the ModBo 4.0 for $20, and the Matrix Infinity 1.99 for $11. Can any experienced users give me their opinion. I've been searching forever on the internet and can't find any installation instructions for the Matrix 1.99. I found it for others, 1.93 etc, but not for this model.
I am an experienced solderer (love my trusty 15 watt radioshack firestarter, with 'SMT' tips lol). So I have an old v7 ps2 lying around that I've been using the slide card with for like ever now (I'm a college student so I have very little time for soldering projects), but over this summer I'd like to install this matrix infinity clone. I purchased one from a site called Eurasia (excellent modding shop btw) and its sitting in the anti-static bag in my room lol. So is there anything in particular I should watch out for with this chip? Other than the inability to update it? (original chip has been long discontinued anyways, so no worries there). I plan on using this for backups, imports and homebrew.
Anyone else have experience with this chip, if so, what do you have to say? Positive or negative, lay it on me. Make sure to keep the wires short, long wires were the #1 cause for black screens or chip not functioning correct for me. Use 28awg 30awg kynar wire, it's easier to solder to certain points that can be too small for 30awg 28awg or other wires. Do not cross wires, use some kind of adhesive (I used a glue gun) to keep the wires tidy. Google for pictures before starting, some mod-jobs are masterpieces thrive for that perfection but have an honest expectation of how your job is going to look like at the end. Do not panic if you burn away a via or accidentally lift a trace, take a pause and repair when you are focused again.
Use thicker wire for GND and 3.3V I used to use the copper wire from old phone wires. Make sure to keep your tip tinned and clean, have some flux at hand and a wet solder sponge to wipe of the excess now and then. Be well fed and rested, don't stress and don't breath in the fumes even though it kind of smells good Ask any questions don't feel dumb.EDIT- Sorry! I meant 30AWG! Click to expand.
Thanks for the tips, but honestly, I doubt I'll be using fmcb with this once I have the chip in anyways. As for the boot rate, are you sure about this? It could've just been a faulty install, as the modbo is a clone of one of THE most high quality, modchips out there (of course, a clone is a clone and is usually made of inferior quality). At any rate, I already have this chip in my possession, and the original Matrix Infinity has long been discontinued, so I don't have much of a choice at this point, unless I can pawn this chip off on someone else lmao. I'm currently using a combo of fmcb and the slide card with the usual onslaught of loaders (including a ps1 gameshark for ps1 games).

Do you think I should try and get rid of this chip (it was only $12+shipping) and stick with my current setup, or attempt the chip installation? Does anyone else have experience with the Modbo 4.0? If so, mind chiming in? Make sure to keep the wires short, long wires were the #1 cause for black screens or chip not functioning correct for me. Use 28awg kynar wire, it's easier to solder to certain points that can be to small for 30awg or other wires.
Do not cross wires, use some kind of adhesive (I used a glue gun) to keep the wires tidy. Google for pictures before starting, some mod-jobs are masterpieces thrive for that perfection but have an honest expectation of how your job is going to look like at the end. Do not panic if you burn away a via or accidentally lift a trace, take a pause and repair when you are focused again. Use thicker wire for GND and 3.3V I used to use the copper wire from old phone wires. Make sure to keep your tip tinned and clean, have some flux at hand and a wet solder sponge to wipe of the excess now and then. Be well fed and rested, don't stress and don't breath in the fumes even though it kind of smells good Ask any questions don't feel dumb. Click to expand.
I gotta say those are some pretty impressive soldering skills you got there. Those are very clean installs, amazing! UPDATE: I never got around to doing this lolcoptaz. Kept putting it off and also didn't want to botch it with my crappy iron from ratshack. I went and ordered one of these for my console modding needs. To many projects have suffered at the hands of my radioshack POS hahahhaa.
I'm gonna give this a go, when I have some downtime between multiple jobs and school.
I want to play import PS1 and PS2 games. I've looked into soft modding, but it doesn't give me the functionality I desire (ability to play PS1 and PS2 games from any region using the original disks, that's all I want), so it looks like I need to install a mod chip. I thought I'd run my thoughts past you guys! I'm thinking the Modbo 4.0, this seems to be a popular one, and from what I've read, it has the region-related features I want. Would this be a good choice? As to installing it, my PS2 is a PAL (Australian) SCPH-50002, from what I've read, it has a V9 motherboard, so is this the diagram I should be following? It says 'USA' on the diagram, so is installation different for my PAL console?
Also, I see there's some alternative solder locations for the wires that are normally soldered to the legs. This sounds appealing to me, since soldering to the legs sounds really fiddly, and there seems like there would be a strong likelihood of accidental bridging, but is there a downside to soldering to the alternative locations? There were a few things I was wondering: 1) Apparently modchips can burn out the laser, is there anything I can do to prevent this (something about a 'diode fix'?)? 2) Will NTSC games automatically run at 60Hz and PAL at 50Hz?
3) When the mod chip loads up an import PS1 game, it's using the console's PS1 hardware, just like a stock PS2 right? It's not emulating the game? 4) Does a modded console function essentially the same as a stock console? I can just pop the game in and it loads up, nothing more required? 5) Some guides mentioned scratching lacquer off the points you're soldering to. Would this only be necessary if you can't get the solder to stick to where it should, or is this the case with all PS2s?
6) How badly can one screw this up? It doesn't seem massively complicated to me, but in case I accidentally create a short or solder to the wrong point or something, does my console die the moment I switch it on, so is it possible to go back and correct the problem without issue? 2) Will NTSC games automatically run at 60Hz and PAL at 50Hz? Color format switches along with Hz also, unlike other consoles. Standard PS2s support the same in-game video modes and cables worldwide. It does not associate them with either console or game region.
Instead all instances of a specific disk, default into the same mode on all PS2s. Barring mods/patches/etc to force otherwise.Yes one CAN do wasteful things like import and chip an american ps2 then use rgb scart with only PAL 576i 50hz games! Correct me if any of this is wrong.